Category: Finance

  • HSA Rollover Rules

    HSA Rollover Rules


    Do you have an old health savings account (HSA) that is just gathering dust? Understanding the HSA rollover rules can help you make the mont of that account.

    While you’ll never lose an old HSA, even when you leave a previous employer, leaving your account untouched isn’t the best idea. Taking advantage of an HSA rollover can put you back in charge of your money. Let’s explore the HSA rollover rules and guidelines.

    What Is an HSA?

    What Is an HSA?

    A health savings account (HSA) is a tax-advantaged savings account that you can use to pay medical expenses that your health insurance doesn’t cover.

    Usually, an HSA is set up by an employer. You can contribute pre-tax income to the account and withdraw it as needed to pay for doctor visits, dental services, and more.

    To open an HSA you will need to have a high-deductible health plan (HDHP). The IRS sets strict guidelines on how much you can contribute to the HSA and what you can use the funds for.

    What Are the Benefits of an HSA

    Tax-free status is one of the biggest benefits to HSAs. You can contribute pre-tax dollars to the account and take distributions for qualifying expenses without ever paying income tax.

    Plus, funds in the account can be invested and grow tax-free, and the funds never expire.

    Even if you lose your employment or HDHP insurance, you get to keep your HSA account. At the age of 65, you can take distributions with no penalty.

    👉 Learn more: Unravel the complexities of the tax system and understand how do taxes work for individuals with our straightforward explanation.

    What Is Covered By an HSA?

    HSA funds can be used for a wide variety of health-related services, including services that insurance may not traditionally cover, such as:

    • Infertility treatments
    • Acupuncture
    • Hearing aids
    • Dentures
    • Childbirth classes
    • First aid kits
    • Acne treatment

    For the complete list of expenses covered (and those not covered), see the IRS’s 2022 Medical and Dental Expenses publication.

    🏥 Learn more: Discover how to secure health insurance while self-employed with our step-by-step guide tailored for freelancers and entrepreneurs.

    Basic HSA Rollover Rules

    A HSA rollover occurs when you move funds from an old HSA into a new one. If you want to roll over your existing HSA funds into a different HSA, there are two important HSA rollover rules to remember.

    1. You can complete an HSA rollover only once every 12 months
    2. You have 60 days from disbursement to deposit funds into an HSA

    If you violate rule 2 above, you’ll be hit with a 20% early HSA withdrawal penalty, and the money will be considered income.

    Let’s say you take a $5,000 withdrawal, and your distribution is taxed at 22%. Your penalty would be $1,000 (20% x $5,000), and your tax total would be $1,100 (22% x $5,000). This leaves with only $2,900 after penalties and taxes.

    It’s also worth noting what is not required when completing an HSA rollover.

    • You do not have to be currently covered under an HDHP
    • You do not need to be currently eligible to make HSA contributions
    • Rollovers do not count towards yearly contribution limits
    • Rollovers do not count as income

    The IRS sets the above rules and regulations. Individual HSA providers may have their own HSA rollover rules.

    How Does an HSA Rollover Work?

    Completing an HSA rollover is straightforward, but you will have to complete a few steps.

    🏃‍♂️ Step 1: Choose a new HSA provider

    You can roll an HSA over to an existing HSA or open a new one. Make sure to research the HSA provider thoroughly and inquire about any limitations or fees associated with a rollover.

    🏃‍♂️ Step 2: Initiate the rollover

    You’ll need to contact your old HSA provider (or plan administrator) to initiate the rollover. The provider will then issue you a check for the full value of your account. This process can take several days.

    🏃‍♂️ Step 3: Deposit the check

    Once the check is cut, the clock starts on the 60-day rule. Check with the new HSA provider to see how they accept funds (i.e., can you sign over the check, or do you need to deposit the funds and then transfer). If you haven’t completed step 1 yet, you’ll need to do that ASAP.

    Keep in mind that HSA funds won’t be available for you to use during the rollover process.

    HSA Rollover Rules Versus Transfer Rules

    One alternative to an HSA rollover is an HSA transfer. Transferring funds from one HSA to another often has fewer limitations than a rollover. Here are some key differences.

    HSA Rollover HSA Transfer
    Funds are issued directly to you Funds are transferred between providers
    Allowed 1 rollover per 12 months No limitations on the frequency
    Usually requires the old account to be emptied and closed out Partial transfers are possible
    Fee-free Sometimes comes with a fee
    Potential tax penalties if you exceed 60 days It can take several days to several weeks to complete
    Can take several days to several weeks to complete Often processes quicker than a rollover

    On paper, an HSA transfer is preferable, especially if you have multiple HSAs that you are looking to consolidate. However, some providers don’t allow transfers, and others charge fees for transfers, which can make a rollover the better option.

    Should I Roll Over My HSA?

    If you have an old HSA from a previous employer sitting unused, it may be worthwhile to look into completing a rollover. However, you should consider a few things before initiating that rollover.

    Account balance is a major factor. If your old HSA balance is low, it might be easier to simply spend the funds.

    Account fees are another important consideration. If your old account charges hefty fees, then a rollover makes sense. But if your new account has higher fees, leaving the old account intact might be the better choice.

    One more point of consideration is account options, specifically investment options. Different providers offer different investments and have different thresholds and limitations for investing. If you are getting good returns with your old HSA, you might want to keep the funds there.

    Finally, you’ll want to evaluate the timing of the rollover. If you have an upcoming need for medical services, you may want to postpone your rollover. Or if you have multiple HSAs you wish to consolidate, the once-a-year limit may mean postponing some of your rollovers.

    Just remember, if you do proceed with a rollover, you need to follow all the HSA rollover rules to avoid costly penalties.

    FAQs

    Am I Eligible to Contribute to an HSA?

    The IRS has strict rules on who can contribute to an HSA and how much can be contributed. Here is the 2023 summary. This HSA contribution eligibility is often cited in rollover and account usage guidelines.
    To be eligible to contribute to an HSA, you need to have a high-deductible health plan (HDHP) and not be covered under any other health plans. 
    You cannot contribute to an HSA if you can be claimed as a dependent or you are currently receiving Medicare benefits.

    How Much Can I Contribute to an HSA?

    This depends on your age and whether or not your HDHP is a single or family plan.
    For 2023, the limits are as follows:
    – $3,850 for self-only
    – $7,750 for family coverage
    – $4,850 for self-only or $8,750 for family coverage if you are 55 or older
    HSA rollovers do not count towards annual contribution limits.

    Do I Need to Report HSA Rollovers on My Taxes?

    No. HSA rollovers are not distributions and should not be recorded as distributions, income, or contributions.
    You will need to report all other HSA contributions and withdrawals for the year. 
    If you exceed the 60-day rollover completion window, then you will need to report the rollover as income and pay taxes accordingly.

    Can I Transfer Funds From My Retirement Account to My HSA?

    Yes. Once in your lifetime, you can move funds from a Roth IRA to an HSA, but only if you are currently eligible to contribute to an HSA. Transferred funds do count towards your annual contribution limits.
    You cannot transfer funds from a 401k to an HSA.

    What Happens if I Lose My HDHP?

    If your insurance no longer qualifies as “high-deductible,” then you can no longer contribute to your HSA.
    You will still retain access to your HSA and can initiate rollovers and manage investments as needed. You can also still take qualified medical-related distributions, even though you don’t have an HDHP.

    What Happens to Unused HSA Funds?

    Nothing. HSA funds remain in your account indefinitely, even if you leave your employer. Depending on your provider’s account fees and investment options, your balance may continue to increase or decrease without you making additional contributions or taking distributions.
    Beginning at age 65, you can start taking non-medical distributions.

    What Is the Difference Between an FSA and an HSA?

    Both HSAs and flexible spending accounts (FSAs) allow you to spend pre-tax dollars on eligible medical expenses. However, the requirements and limitations are different. 
    You do not need an HDHP to qualify for an FSA. An entire year’s worth of funds are available at the beginning of the year. 
    On the FSA downside, funds do not roll over each year. Any money you don’t use by the end of the year is forfeited. FSA funds cannot be invested either, so there is no tax-free growth. FSAs are self-only accounts with smaller contribution limits.

    Can I Ever Cash Out My HSA?

    Yes, you can cash out your HSA anytime; however, there may be penalties.
    Distributions for non-medical expenses are taxable and will incur a 20% penalty. So, if you withdraw $10,00 from an HSA, you’ll get hit with a $2,000 penalty plus income tax.
    There’s an exception for those 65 or older. At age 65, you can take penalty-free distributions from your HSA. Non-medical withdrawals at this age will still count as income, though.

    What Happens to My HSA If I Die?

    If your surviving spouse is the beneficiary, then account ownership will be transferred to them. The transfer is not taxable, and they can continue using funds for their own medical expenses and, at age 65, begin taking penalty-free non-medical distributions.
    When the account’s beneficiary is not your spouse, the account ceases to be an HSA. Funds become taxable income to your beneficiaries. There is no 20% early withdrawal penalty.

  • Best Personal Loan – GrowthRapidly



    March 15, 2024
    Posted By: growth-rapidly
    Tag:
    Uncategorized

    Upstart personal loans are great for people who have fair or limited credit. Upstart relies on more than 1,500 variables as part of its underwriting process, and much of the data is highly correlated. This process is different from traditional lending models, which use simple FICO-based models to provide a snapshot of an individual’s credit and are quite limited in their ability to assess the true lending risk of each consumer. APPLY FOR UPSTART NOW.

    SEE BEST BANK OFFERS

    Upstart Overview

    Upstart was founded in 2012 in San Mateo, California, and has helped over 2.7 million customers with their lending needs through personal loans, consolidation loans and car loan refinance. It uses an AI-based lending model to improve access to affordable credit for consumers with lower credit scores due to challenges or limited credit profiles. Overall, 84% of Upstart’s loans are fully automated with no human interaction — from origination to final funding.

    Key Features 

    Here’s what you need to know about the key features of Upstart loans.

    Rates

    Upstart claims it offers up to 43% lower rates than lenders using a credit score-only model to make lending decisions. Rates offered range from 4.6% to 35.99% APR. Although the starting rate is more competitive than many other lenders offering personal loans, the 35.99% APR is much higher. However, if you have challenged or limited credit and need a personal loan, Upstart might be able to approve you when other lenders won’t. Just keep in mind that your rate could be quite high. Upstart allows you to check your potential rate before applying. APPLY FOR UPSTART NOW.

    Loan Amount

    Upstart issues personal loans in amounts from $1,000-$50,000. This range is on par with personal loan amounts offered by other personal loan lenders, although some personal loan lenders do offer up to $100,000.

    Note that Upstart has minimum loan amounts for the following states:

    • Georgia – $3,100
    • Hawaii – $2,100
    • Massachusetts – $7,000

    Fees

    When it comes to fees, Upstart has several. For starters, it charges a one-time origination fee of 0%-12%. The origination fee is taken out of your loan amount before it’s funded. There’s also a late payment fee of the greater of 5% of the monthly past due amount or $15. Late payment fees may be assessed if you fail to pay within 10 calendar days of the payment due date. Upstart also charges $15 per occurrence for returned ACH or check payments, and a $10 fee if you request paper copies of your loan documents.

    Funding

    In most cases, Upstart provides fast funding. It funds personal loans on the next business day — as long as you accept the terms before 5 p.m. ET, Monday-Friday. If you accept the terms after 5 p.m. (or on a weekend or holiday), the funds will be transferred on the following business day unless you are using the funds to pay off credit cards. If the personal loan is for education purposes, it will take three additional business days to receive the funds.. APPLY FOR UPSTART NOW.

    How To Apply for an Upstart Loan

    To apply for an Upstart loan, do the following: 

    1. Go to Upstart’s website and click “Check your rate.” This will not affect your credit. 
    2. Select the desired personal loan amount and loan terms.
    3. Fill out the loan application. You’ll be asked for information about your education and work experience as well as the loan’s purpose. The lender will initiate a hard pull on your credit.
    4. Wait for Upstart’s decision on your loan application.  

    Who Upstart Is Best For 

    Upstart is best for consumers who have challenged or limited credit, which makes it difficult to get a personal loan through a traditional lender. Upstart uses an AI-powered lending model that examines over 1,500 variables, including education and employment, to determine consumer credit risks, which leads to greater approval rates than what traditional lenders can offer.

    Final Take 

    When considering a personal loan, it pays to shop around. Take into consideration the fees and rates of each lender. And if you have a limited credit profile or other credit challenges, including fair credit instead of good or excellent ratings, Upstart is worth considering. Keep in mind, however, that Upstart’s personal loan origination fees can be up to 12% and are deducted from the total loan amount before you receive it. 

    Put Your Money to Work

    Managing your money effectively starts with careful planning. With SmartAsset, you can get matched up with three advisors who can empower you to make smart financial decisions. SmartAsset also helps take the mystery out of retirement planning by answering some of the most commonly asked questions in a simple, personalized way. Learn more about how SmartAsset can help you find your advisor match and get started now.

  • 6 Ways to Help Your Child Build Credit During College

    6 Ways to Help Your Child Build Credit During College


    College students have a lot on their plate already, including the need to study to get good grades, participating in any number of on-campus activities and potentially working part-time to have some spending money.

    That said, college students should also focus on their financial future, including steps they can take to build credit before they enter the workforce.

    After all, having a credit history and a good credit score can mean being able to rent an apartment, finance a car or take out a loan, whereas having no credit at all can mean sitting on the sidelines until the situation changes.

    Fortunately, there are all kinds of ways for young adults to build credit while they’re still in school. Some strategies require a little work on their part, but many are hands-off tasks that you only have to do once.

    Teach Them Credit-Building Basics

    Make sure your student knows the basic cornerstones of credit building, including the factors that are used to determine credit scores. While factors like new credit, length of credit history and credit mix will play a role in their credit later on, the two most important issues for credit newcomers to focus on include payment history and credit utilization.

    Payment history makes up 35% of FICO scores and credit utilization ratio makes up 30% of scores.

    Generally speaking, college students and everyone else can score well in these categories by making all bill payments on time and keeping debt levels low. How low?

    Most experts recommend keeping credit utilization below 30% at a maximum and below 10% for the best possible results. This means trying to owe less than $300 for every $1,000 in available credit limits at a maximum, but preferably less than $100 for every $1,000 in credit limits.

    Add Your Child as an Authorized User

    One step you can personally take to help a child build credit is adding them to your credit card account as an authorized user. This means they will get a credit card in their name and access to your spending limit, but you are legally responsible for any charges they make. Obviously, this move works best when you have excellent credit and a strong history of on-time payments and you plan to continue using credit responsibly .

    While this step can be risky if you’re worried your college student will use their card to overspend, you don’t actually have to give them their physical authorized user credit card.

    In fact, they can get credit for your on-time payments whether they have access to a card or not. If you do decide to give them their credit card, you can do so with the agreement they can only use it for emergency expenses.

    Encourage Them to Get a Secured Credit Card

    Your child can build credit faster if they apply for a credit card and get approved for one on their own, yet this can be difficult for students who have no credit history. That said, secured credit cards require a refundable cash deposit as collateral are very easy to get approved for.

    Some secured credit cards like the Ambition Card by College Ave even offer cash back1 on every purchase and don’t charge interest2. If your child opts to start building credit with a secured credit card, make sure they understand the best ways to build credit quickly — keeping credit utilization low and paying bills early or on time each month.

    screenshot of ambition card by college ave

    Opt for a Student Credit Card Instead

    While secured credit cards are a good option for students with little to no credit get started on their journey to good credit, there are also credit cards specifically designed for college students. Student credit cards are unsecured cards, meaning they don’t require an upfront cash deposit as collateral, but charge interest on any purchases not paid in full each month.

    Many student credit cards offer rewards for spending with no annual fee required as well, although these cards do tend to come with a high APR. The key to getting the most out of a student credit card is having your dependent use it only for purchases they can afford and paying off the balance in its entirety each billing cycle. After all, sky high interest rates don’t really matter when you never carry a balance from one month to the next.

    Student Credit Cards…

    “One of the safest ways for college student to build their credit by learning valuable money skills.”

    Help Your Child Get Credit for Other Bill Payments

    While secured cards and student credit cards help young adults build credit with each bill payment they make, other payments they’re making can also help.

    In fact, using an app like Experian Boost can help them get credit for utility bills they’re paying, subscriptions they pay for and even rent payments they’re making. This app is also free to use, and you only have to set up most bill payments in the app once to have them reported to the credit bureaus.

    There are also rent-specific apps and tools students can use to get credit for rent payments, although they come with fees. Examples include websites like Rental Kharma and RentReporters.

    Make Interest-Only Payments On Student Loans

    The Fair Isaac Corporation (FICO) also notes that students can start building credit with their student loans during school, even if they’re not officially required to make payments until six months after graduation with federal student loans.

    Their advice is to make interest-only payments on federal student loans along with payments on any private student loans they have during college in order to start having those payments reported to the credit bureaus as soon as possible.

    “Making interest-only payments as a student will not only positively affect your credit history but will also keep the interest from capitalizing and adding to your student loan balance,” the agency writes.

    Of course, interest capitalization on loans would only be an issue with private student loans and  Federal Direct Unsubsidized Loans since the U.S. Department of Education pays the interest on Direct Subsidized Loans while you’re in school at least half-time, for six months after you graduate and during periods of deferment.

    The Bottom Line

    College students don’t have to wait until they’re done with school to start building credit for the future, and it makes sense to start building positive credit habits early on regardless. Tools like a credit card can help students on their way, whether they opt for a secured credit card or a student card. Other steps like using credit-building apps can also help, and with little effort on the student’s part or on yours.

    Either way, the best time to start building credit was a few years ago, and the second best time is now. You can give your student a leg up on the future by helping them build credit so it’s there when they need it.

    1Cash back rewards are subject to the Ambition Rewards Terms & Conditions.

    20% APR. Account is subject to a monthly account fee of $2, account fee is waived for the initial six-monthly billing cycles.

    College Ave is not a bank. Banking services provided by, and the College Ave Mastercard Charge Card is issued by Evolve Bank & Trust, Member FDIC pursuant to a license from Mastercard International Incorporated. Mastercard and the Mastercard Brand Mark are registered trademarks of Mastercard International Incorporated.

  • How to Earn Airline Miles and Hotel Points without a Credit Card

    How to Earn Airline Miles and Hotel Points without a Credit Card


    This is how the travel hacking world works in a nutshell:

    1. Get a credit card with a huge welcome bonus
    2. Scour reward ticket calendars for amazing deals, which are often last minute
    3. Take advatange of transfer bonuses to get extra points

    And the hard part of all this, beyond the spending, is that it requires a lot of work.

    Or you pay for a service to help you find it.

    And while 90% of the benefits can be captured doing those three steps, there are still a lot of different ways you can earn points and miles without a credit card.

    If you don’t have time to read it all, here are the top three:

    1. Make sure you’re shopping through a shopping portal to maximize your miles and points
    2. Join the dining programs so you earn points for restaurant visits
    3. Sign up to their emails so you learn about new promotions

    Here are the rest:

    Table of Contents
    1. If You Rent, Use Bilt
    2. Use Shopping Portals
    3. Car Rentals
    4. Sign Up For Emails
    5. Rocketmiles
    6. Dining Programs
    7. Survey Groups
    8. Utilities
    9. Magazine Subscriptions

    If You Rent, Use Bilt

    The Bilt Mastercard is a card that gives you points when you spend it on rent, up to 100,000 points a year. You will earn 1 point for each $1 spent on rent and it’s the only credit card that lets you do this and it has no annual fee. If you rent and aren’t using this card, you’re leaving points on the table.

    You can transfer your Bilt points to a variety of other loyalty programs and sometimes there are even transfer bonuses. Our Bilt review discusses this program in much greater detail.

    👉 Learn more about Bilt

    Shopping portals are websites that you visit first to ensure you earn miles and points for your purchase. If you’ve ever used cashback shopping portals, like Rakuten/eBates or Topcashback, you’re familiar with these websites. You click through to your intended website from a portal and get a small percentage back as cash.

    With travel shopping portals, you don’t get cash back but points and miles.

    Just search for “[loyalty program] shopping portal” and you’ll probably find it. The exception to this are hotels, it doesn’t appear many hotel loyalty programs have a shopping portal.

    Car Rentals

    The major car rental companies have partnerships with airlines and can earn miles and points if you enter in a loyalty reward number when renting.

    For example, Avis has a partnership with United MileagePlus in which you earn miles based on the rental and your membership level:

    • General members can earn 500 base miles per rental.
    • Chase card members can earn 750 base miles per rental.
    • Premier® Silver and Premier Gold members can earn 1,000 base miles per rental.
    • Premier Platinum and Premier 1K® members earn 1,250 base miles per rental.

    Sign Up For Emails

    From time to time, loyalty programs will offer limited time offers which may include free points. They might offer a few hundred points for downloading an app or referring a friend, they only notify folks on social media (which is unreliable) or email, which you have to be subscribed to receive. Make sure you’re subscribed!

    Rocketmiles

    If you’re booking a hotel, consider using Rocketmiles as it’ll help you earn rewards from a variety of partnerships including airlines as well as Amazon and Amtrak. They have partnerships with more than 40 programs.

    Dining Programs

    Several loyalty programs are looking to make their way into the OpenTable and Resy business by creating dining programs in which you can earn points for making and keeping reservations.

    Many are operated by the Rewards Network and similarly structured.

    These include bonus miles for signing up to the program too:

    Hotels offer this as well:

    Survey Groups

    There are some survey groups that pay in miles, which is not exactly an “easy” way to earn miles but one that available to some folks regardless.

    Miles for Opinions is a survey company that pays you in American Airlines AAdvantage Miles. You get 250 bonus miles for completing your first survey.

    e-Rewards is another survey company that pays in “points” but you can redeem those points for points and miles at a variety of loyalty programs.

    Utilities

    Did you know that you can earn rewards for various loyalty programs if you select a utility provider through an airline or hotel partnership? You usually get a sign up bonus after two months of service plus points based on spending.

    For example, if you live in IL, MA, MD, NJ, or PA and can select an electric supplier, you can earn bonus points from Southwest by selecting this deal with NRG Home. You will earn 10,000 Rapid Rewards points after two months of service plus 2 points for ever $1 spent on the supply portion of your bill. You will have to compare the rates to know if you’re coming out ahead but this is an option.

    If you live in CT, MD, NJ, NY, or Ohio and are contemplating going with Energy Plus, you could take this deal and get American Airlines AAdvantage miles. You get 10,000 AAdvantage miles after the second month and you also earn 2 miles for every $1 spent on the supply portion of your bill.

    Magazine Subscriptions

    If you’re paying a magazine directly for a subscription, you’re probably 1. overpaying and 2. not getting your just rewards.

    Within each of the shopping portals, there are partnerships with magazine sellers like Magazines.com and DiscountMags.com. In each case, you can not only earn miles and points for your spending but there are special discount too.

    Making that transition will likely save you money and earn you a few points and miles.

  • eSIM for International Travel Mobile Data Roaming

    eSIM for International Travel Mobile Data Roaming


    One thing that unites the world is the mobile phone. When you travel internationally, everywhere you go, people have their phones. Most hotels and many restaurants have Wi-Fi. Still, it’s much easier if you have mobile data when you’re out and about. You can call an Uber, look for restaurants nearby, or find walking directions to attractions or public transit stations.

    U.S. Carriers Are Expensive

    Mobile data is expensive in the U.S. According to a website, the United States ranked #219 among 237 countries in the world for the cost of mobile data (from the least expensive to the most expensive). Some say it’s primarily due to limited competition, high infrastructure costs, and a poor market structure.

    As expensive as it is in the U.S., the U.S. carriers charge multiple times more when you travel outside the country. Some plans charge as much as $10 per day. If you’re out 30 days, that would be $300. And that’s only if you buy the international travel pass before you travel. If you use international roaming without pre-arrangement, your mobile data bill could be enormous. A plan I used to use charges $100 to $150 per GB of mobile data in some countries. If you use 4 GB of mobile data, that would be $400 to $600.

    A reasonable cost should be more like $10 — not $10 per day — $10 for the whole trip.

    Buy a Local SIM Card

    A way to avoid the exorbitant charges from your U.S. carrier is to buy a SIM card locally after you arrive in the foreign country. You find a shop at the airport or on the street to buy a SIM card that covers the length of your stay. You put it into your phone but you have to carefully save your existing SIM card. You’ll need it again when you come back to the U.S.

    I did this when I traveled to New Zealand in 2016. I bought a SIM card at a store for $5 that covered a whole month.

    This works, but it isn’t always easy to find a store that sells SIM cards to international travelers. You may have a language barrier. You have to take precious time out of your vacation to do it. If you lose the tiny SIM card from the U.S., you’ll have to spend time again to replace it after you return.

    eSIM

    Technology advances since 2016 gave us eSIMs. An eSIM is an electronic equivalent of the tiny physical SIM card. iPhones sold in the U.S. only use eSIMs after iPhone 14 was released in 2022. Other phones released in recent years that still support physical SIM cards also work with eSIMs.

    eSIMs don’t have the limitations of physical card trays and card reading contacts. A phone can simultaneously hold two or more eSIMs or one physical SIM plus another eSIM. You can toggle between two SIMs without worrying about losing one.

    It also made it much easier to buy a SIM for international travel. You don’t have to find that local store in a foreign country. You can shop online for a wide selection and the best price before you leave.

    Chances are that your current phone already supports eSIMs. If you’re not sure, Google your phone’s model plus the word “eSIM” or ask AI.

    I use the website esimdb.com when I buy an eSIM. It’s like a search engine for online eSIM vendors. It gets paid a commission by the vendors. I’m not affiliated with it. I use it only because it includes a wide selection.

    You search by which country you’re traveling to, for how many days, and how much data you need. Some eSIMs cover multiple countries. If you’re going to several countries in a region, get an eSIM that covers all your destinations.

    esimdb.com filters
    esimdb.com filters

    For my typical usage while traveling, 1 GB per week is plenty when hotels have Wi-Fi and I pre-download offline maps. I’m going to Quebec, Canada, for a week. esimdb.com shows multiple vendors that sell a 1 GB eSIM for about $2.

    Many eSIMs support top-ups. If you need more data than the amount you originally bought, you can go back to the eSIM vendor and pay more to add more data to your eSIM. eSIMs are quite inexpensive anyway. A 1 GB eSIM for Canada costs about $2. A 2 GB eSIM costs about $4. If I don’t want the hassle of possibly running out, paying $4 versus $2 is a rounding error in travel costs.

    I look for eSIM vendors that accept Apple Pay, Google Pay, or PayPal because I don’t want to give them my credit card number directly. If a vendor doesn’t accept Apple Pay, Google Pay, or PayPal, I move on to the next one.

    It doesn’t matter if you’ve never heard of the vendors listed on esimdb. I have bought eSIMs from several different vendors for different countries, and the eSIMs all worked as advertised.

    You get a QR code by email after you buy the eSIM. You add the eSIM to your phone by scanning the QR code with your phone. Adding a new eSIM doesn’t overwrite your existing SIM. You can switch on and off which SIM should be active. Switch off your U.S. line after you board the plane to avoid international roaming charges.

    You can add the eSIM before you leave the U.S., but it will drain your battery a little more when the eSIM keeps looking for its carrier and doesn’t find it. If you decide to add the eSIM when you first land in the foreign country, you must be on Wi-Fi when you add it. You also need to display the QR code on a second device, such as a tablet, to scan it, or you can print the QR code on paper and take it with you.

    The inexpensive eSIMs are usually data-only eSIMs. You don’t get a local number for calls and texts, but that’s OK. You can use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps, such as iMessage or WhatsApp. The eSIM uses a local carrier but it doesn’t necessarily come from a carrier in that country. The eSIM I bought for Spain was assigned a number from Austria. The data roaming setting must be enabled for it to work.

    Unlocked Phone

    Whether you buy a local physical SIM or eSIM, you need an unlocked phone. A phone locked to a specific carrier doesn’t work with a SIM from a different carrier. If you bought your phone directly from the manufacturer, it’s probably unlocked from day one. Your phone may be locked if you bought it from your carrier at a discounted price or if it’s still on a device payment plan with the phone company.

    You can check whether your phone is unlocked if you’re not sure. On an iPhone, it’s under Settings -> General -> About -> Carrier Lock. The menu option for Android phones varies by model. Google the phone’s model and the phrase “carrier unlock status” or ask AI how to find it.

    Some phones are still locked after you already satisfied the requirements from your carrier. You can call the carrier and request unlocking. If your current phone is still locked and you can’t unlock it, you may have an older phone that’s unlocked. Put the eSIM on that one and use it for international travel.

    Summary

    You’ll have mobile data for your phone for usually under $10 for your entire trip if you do these:

    1. Check whether your phone supports eSIM. Most recent phones do.

    2. Check whether your phone is unlocked. It probably is. Request unlocking from your carrier if it’s locked.

    3. Buy an eSIM online for your destination(s) before you leave.

    4. Add the eSIM to your phone and switch off your U.S. line at the airport. Remember to enable the data roaming setting for the eSIM.

    5. Switch your U.S. line back on after you return and delete the travel eSIM.

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  • Claim home loan tax benefits & Save Lakhs

    Claim home loan tax benefits & Save Lakhs


    Owning a home is a cherished milestone for many, but beyond the emotional value and security it brings, it also offers significant financial advantages. One of the most rewarding aspects is the home loan tax benefit. It substantially reduces your annual tax liability.

    If you’re servicing a home loan, both the principal and interest components of your EMI (Equated Monthly Instalment) are eligible for tax deductions. With proper guidance from a tax advisor or expert tax consulting services, you can make smarter financial decisions.

    Let’s explore the various tax-saving opportunities your home loan offers and how to make the most of them.

    Understanding Your EMI: Principal and Interest

    It’s essential to understand your home loan EMI structure. Every EMI consists of two parts:

    • Principal repayment – the amount that reduces your actual loan.
    • Interest payment – the cost you pay to borrow the money.

    The home loan tax benefit applies to both components but under different sections of the Income Tax Act. Understanding these sections is key to effective tax planning and tax saving on home loan repayments.

    1. Principal Repayment – Section 80C

    Under Section 80C of the Income Tax Act, you can claim a deduction of up to ₹1.5 lakh per financial year on the principal component of your home loan EMI. This section also includes other investments like ELSS, PPF, NSC, and life insurance premiums, so your total deduction across all eligible instruments is capped at ₹1.5 lakh.

    Eligibility Conditions:

    • The home loan must be from a recognised financial institution or bank.
    • The property should not be sold within five years from the end of the financial year in which possession was obtained; otherwise, the claimed deduction will be reversed.

    A professional tax advisor can help you balance your Section 80C investments smartly to ensure optimal tax benefit without duplication or overlap.

    2. Interest Payment – Section 24(b)

    One of the most valuable home loan tax benefits comes under Section 24(b), which allows for an annual deduction of up to ₹2 lakh on the interest paid on home loans for self-occupied properties.

    For Rented Properties:

    • If your property is rented out, there is no cap on the interest deduction. However, total loss from house property that can be adjusted against other income is limited to ₹2 lakh per year.

    Eligibility Conditions:

    • The loan must be taken for purchase or construction of a house.
    • The construction or acquisition must be completed within five years from the end of the financial year in which the loan was taken.
    • You must have an interest certificate from your lender as proof.

    Tax consulting services can guide you on how to structure your finances if you’re managing multiple properties or rental income.

    3. Additional Tax Deductions for First-Time Buyers

    First-time homebuyers are eligible for additional tax benefits beyond Sections 80C and 24(b), thanks to Section 80EE and Section 80EEA.

    80EE Tax Benefit:

    • Deduction of up to ₹50,000 on interest paid, over and above Section 24(b).
    • Applicable only if:
      • Loan is sanctioned between April 1, 2016, and March 31, 2017.
      • Property value does not exceed ₹50 lakh.
      • Loan amount does not exceed ₹35 lakh.
      • You do not own any other residential property at the time of loan sanction.

    Section 80EEA:

    • Offers an additional deduction of up to ₹1.5 lakh on interest.
    • Applicable if:
      • Loan was sanctioned between April 1, 2019, and March 31, 2022.
      • Property value does not exceed ₹45 lakh.
      • You are a first-time homeowner.

    These provisions can help first-time buyers save up to ₹3.5 lakh annually on interest paid. Consulting a trusted tax advisor ensures you meet the eligibility requirements and avoid claim rejections.

    4. Joint Home Loans – Doubling the Benefits

    If you’re buying a house jointly (e.g., with your spouse or parents), and both parties are co-owners and co-borrowers, you can effectively double your home loan tax benefit.

    Each co-borrower can claim:

    • ₹1.5 lakh under Section 80C for principal repayment
    • ₹2 lakh under Section 24(b) for interest payment

    This strategy works best in dual-income households where both partners file tax returns and contribute to EMI payments. Structured properly with help from tax consulting services, joint loans can significantly lower the family’s total tax liability.

    5. Tax Benefits for Under-Construction Properties

    If your home is still under construction, you won’t be able to claim deductions under Section 24(b) until possession is obtained. However, there’s a provision for pre-construction interest deduction.

    You can claim the total interest paid during the construction phase in five equal installments starting from the year of possession, subject to the ₹2 lakh annual cap under Section 24(b).

    While the principal repayment won’t qualify under Section 80C until construction is completed, tracking and documenting your payments from day one is essential for future tax claims.

    6. How to Maximise Your Home Loan Tax Savings

    To ensure you’re extracting the full value of your home loan tax benefit, follow these tips:

    • Maintain accurate records: Always collect your interest and principal certificates from your lender annually.
    • Time your possession carefully: Delays in construction can impact your eligibility for deductions under Section 24(b).
    • Leverage joint ownership: Distribute ownership and repayment in a way that maximises deductions for all borrowers.
    • Hire a professional: A certified tax advisor can assess your income, property details, and loan terms to customise your tax strategy.

    7. How Fincart Can Help You Save More

    At Fincart, we believe that informed financial choices lead to long-term wealth and security. Our expert tax consulting services are designed to help individuals, especially salaried professionals and young homeowners, navigate the complexities of tax laws.

    Whether you’re claiming your first 80EE tax benefit, figuring out joint loan strategies, or juggling multiple deductions, our dedicated team will ensure you’re not leaving any money on the table.

    We offer:

    • Personalised tax consultation sessions
    • Documentation review and filing support
    • Home loan benefit optimisation
    • Guidance on real estate-linked tax strategies

    With Fincart, you don’t just buy a house—you unlock financial potential.

    Conclusion

    A home loan is more than a step toward property ownership—it’s a powerful tool for reducing your tax burden. From principal repayment under 80C and interest deduction under 24(b) to exclusive 80EE tax benefits for first-time buyers, the Indian tax system offers multiple avenues to make homeownership financially rewarding.

    By understanding these deductions and aligning your loan strategy with expert advice from tax advisors and tax consulting services, you can maximise your tax saving on home loan and take a smarter path toward wealth creation.

    Let Fincart help you take full advantage of your home loan benefits. Speak to our tax experts today and start saving smarter!



  • PFIC Rules for Indian NRIs in USA: Tax Impact & Solutions

    PFIC Rules for Indian NRIs in USA: Tax Impact & Solutions


    Confused about PFIC rules for Indian NRIs in USA? Learn how PFIC affects your Indian mutual funds, tax filing, and smart alternatives to avoid penalties.

    If you’re an NRI living in the US and investing in Indian mutual funds or other foreign assets, then you might have come across a scary term called PFIC or Passive Foreign Investment Company. Many NRIs panic when they hear this, mainly because of the complex taxation and reporting rules around it. In this article, I’ll break it down for you in simple terms so that you know what PFIC is, how it affects you as an NRI, and what steps you can take to handle it smartly.

    PFIC Rules for Indian NRIs in USA: Tax Impact & Solutions

    PFIC Rules for Indian NRIs in USA

    What is PFIC?

    PFIC stands for Passive Foreign Investment Company. It is a concept under the US Internal Revenue Code (IRC Section 1297). This rule was introduced to prevent US taxpayers from deferring tax or converting ordinary income to capital gains through foreign investments that generate passive income.

    So, what exactly qualifies as a PFIC?

    A foreign (non-US) company is considered a PFIC if it meets either of the following conditions in a tax year:

    1. Income Test: 75% or more of the company’s gross income is passive income (like interest, dividends, capital gains, rents, royalties).
    2. Asset Test: 50% or more of the company’s assets produce or are held to produce passive income.

    Why Should NRIs in the US Care About PFIC?

    Let’s say you are an NRI living in the US and you are investing in Indian mutual funds, ETFs, or ULIPs. From the US tax perspective, many of these investment instruments qualify as PFICs.

    This means:

    • The IRS considers these investments as tax shelters, and
    • You will be subject to punitive taxation rules and mandatory filing requirements.

    Common Indian Investments That May Be Considered PFICs

    • Mutual Funds (equity, debt, or hybrid)
    • ULIPs (Unit Linked Insurance Plans)
    • Exchange Traded Funds (ETFs)
    • REITs or Infrastructure Investment Trusts (InvITs)

    This is because most of these funds are registered as foreign corporations in India and earn passive income. Hence, under PFIC rules, they become taxable under special rules in the US.

    How is a PFIC Taxed in the USA?

    If you hold a PFIC, you have three options for reporting and taxation under the US tax law:

    1. Default Taxation (Excess Distribution Method) – Most Penal

    • Under this method, any gains from the sale or income (dividends) from PFIC are taxed at the highest marginal tax rate applicable in the year the income is recognized.
    • The IRS applies interest charges as if the income had been earned and untaxed over several years.
    • This is extremely punitive and complicated.

    Example: You sold an Indian mutual fund with Rs.5 lakh gain. Instead of long-term capital gains (20% in India), IRS may tax it as if you earned Rs.1 lakh each year over 5 years and didn’t pay tax — and add interest.

    2. Qualified Electing Fund (QEF) Election

    • You must obtain annual information from the PFIC to declare your share of income and capital gains.
    • This election is rarely practical because Indian mutual fund houses don’t provide QEF statements or financial data in the required IRS format.
    • Hence, for most NRIs, this option is not feasible.

    Problem: No Indian mutual fund (SBI, HDFC, ICICI, etc.) provides these QEF statements. So, this is not practical for Indian investors.

    3. Mark-to-Market (MTM) Election

    • If you elect this method, you declare annual unrealized gains/losses based on the fair market value of your investment at year-end.
    • Gains are taxed as ordinary income, while losses are allowed to the extent of prior-year gains.
    • However, this is applicable only for publicly traded PFICs (which most Indian mutual funds are not).
    • Again, not practical for most Indian investments.

    Problem: Most Indian mutual funds are not traded on US-recognized exchanges, so this method is unavailable for most NRIs.

    Bottom line: For most NRIs investing in Indian mutual funds, taxation under the default PFIC rules applies — which is the most complex and harsh.

    Reporting Requirements: Form 8621

    If you are a US person (citizen or resident alien), and you own PFICs directly or indirectly, you are required to file Form 8621 along with your US tax return.

    • One form is required per PFIC investment per year.
    • If you hold multiple mutual funds, you’ll need to file multiple forms (If you hold 10 mutual funds, you need 10 forms.)
    • Even if you didn’t sell or earn anything, you still have to report.
    • No minimum threshold — even a Rs.10,000 investment is reportable.
    • Missing this form can keep your entire tax return open for audit forever.
    • Failing to file Form 8621 can result in penalties, delays in tax processing, and extended audit windows.

    Many tax preparers charge high fees (CPA costs: $100 to $300 per form — which adds up quickly!)to file Form 8621 because of its complexity. If you don’t file it correctly, you might end up with IRS scrutiny or overpaying taxes.

    Practical Examples for Indian NRIs

    Let’s make it real with a simple example.

    Scenario:

    • You moved to the US in 2022 on H1B.
    • You already had Rs.20 lakhs in Indian mutual funds (5 different schemes).
    • You didn’t sell anything in 2022.
    • You think there’s no tax — but that’s wrong.

    IRS says:

    File 5 Forms 8621 for each mutual fund.

    You may owe tax if the fund paid dividends or showed gains.

    Even unrealized gains may be taxed under the default method.

    Not filing = Audit risk + Penalties.

    Latest Developments and IRS Guidance (As of 2024-2025)

    Here are the emerging PFIC-related developments and enforcement trends you must know as an NRI:

    1. Increased IRS Scrutiny Under FATCA & CRS

    The IRS is using data shared under FATCA (Foreign Account Tax Compliance Act) and Common Reporting Standards (CRS) to identify foreign investment holdings of US residents. NRIs with undeclared mutual funds or ULIPs are increasingly at risk of:

    • Audits
    • Penalties for missed filings (especially Form 8621, FBAR, Form 8938)

    Even if you have no taxable gain, not filing Form 8621 when required may leave your entire return open to audit indefinitely.

    2. Tax Software Integration Still Lags

    Though platforms like TurboTax and H&R Block now flag PFICs, they don’t support Form 8621 directly. Many NRIs are being forced to file via CPAs or manually using fillable PDF forms.

    This increases the cost of tax preparation, often:

    • $100–$300 per Form 8621 per fund per year

    If you have 10 Indian mutual funds, your filing cost alone may run into thousands of dollars.

    3. No Indian Mutual Fund AMC Offers QEF Reporting

    A Qualified Electing Fund (QEF) election is the most tax-friendly way to handle PFICs — but it requires specific annual disclosures from the fund (income, capital gains, etc.) in IRS format.

    As of 2025:

    • No Indian AMC (SBI, HDFC, ICICI, etc.) provides QEF statements.
    • So QEF election is not possible.
    • You’re left with Default or Mark-to-Market (MTM) — both tax-heavy.

    4. Mutual Fund Units May Be Deemed Sold Even Without Selling

    If you make a gift, switch plans (from regular to direct), or transfer funds between AMCs, it may be treated as a “constructive sale” for US tax purposes, triggering PFIC taxation.

    5. IRS Watch on Cryptocurrency and PFIC Overlaps

    Some Indian crypto-based ETFs and structured notes are beginning to emerge, which also fall under PFIC classification. Expect tighter rules and tracking on:

    • Crypto-linked funds
    • Hybrid products combining equity + crypto

    Indian Investments That Are NOT PFICs

    Investment Type PFIC Status Reason
    Direct Indian Stocks (Equity) Not PFIC You own the company directly — not pooled funds.
    NRE/NRO/FCNR Bank Deposits Not PFIC Fixed deposits, not investment companies.
    Government Bonds (G-Secs, SDLs, T-Bills) Not PFIC Issued by Govt. of India.
    PPF / EPF Not PFIC Government retirement schemes, not pooled funds.
    Sovereign Gold Bonds (SGBs) Not PFIC Issued by RBI.
    Traditional LIC Plans (non-ULIP) Not PFIC Treated as insurance, not investment pool.
    Direct Real Estate (Physical property) Not PFIC Not a fund; you directly own the asset.

    Indian Investments That ARE PFICs

    Investment Type PFIC Status Reason
    Indian Mutual Funds (Equity/Debt) PFIC Pooled funds earning passive income.
    ULIPs (Investment-linked plans) PFIC Treated as investment companies by IRS.
    ETFs by Indian AMCs PFIC Corporate structures generating passive returns.
    REITs/InvITs PFIC Structured like companies, distribute passive income.
    AIFs (Cat I & II) PFIC Investment fund nature.
    Portfolio Management Services (PMS) PFIC Usually pooled — treated like PFICs.

    What Are Your Options as an Indian NRI in the USA?

    Option 1: Avoid PFICs Altogether

    • If you are planning to stay in the US long term, it’s simpler to avoid Indian mutual funds.
    • Invest in US-based India-focused ETFs (like INDA, EPI).
    • These are not PFICs, easier to report, and have lower tax headaches.

    Option 2: Shift to Non-PFIC Indian Assets

    Consider moving your investments to:

    • Direct Indian stocks (e.g., Reliance, TCS).
    • NRE/NRO FDs – though interest is taxable, they’re not PFICs.
    • Government bonds – G-Secs, T-Bills, or RBI Floating Rate Bonds.
    • SGBs – offers gold exposure without PFIC classification.

    Caution: Selling existing PFICs may trigger taxes — consult a tax expert first.

    Option 3: Retain PFICs But File Diligently

    If you prefer to hold Indian mutual funds:

    • Budget for annual CPA filing costs.
    • File Form 8621 properly.
    • Understand that taxation will be harsh (especially on gains).

    Common Mistakes NRIs Make

    Thinking PFIC rules apply only when you sell – Wrong.

    Skipping Form 8621 due to small balances – Wrong.

    Gifting Indian mutual funds to avoid PFIC – May trigger “constructive sale.”

    Believing ULIPs are exempt – Wrong, IRS treats them as PFICs.

    Ignoring older Indian investments – IRS looks at current holding, not purchase date.

    Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) – PFIC for NRIs in the US

    1. Does PFIC apply to investments made before moving to the US?

    Yes, it can apply, and this is where many NRIs get caught off guard.

    • The IRS does not care when or where you invested. If you’re now a US tax resident, all your global investments — including those made in India before moving — must be reported as per US tax laws.
    • So, even if you invested in Indian mutual funds 5 years ago, and moved to the US last year, you may still need to:
      • File Form 8621 for each mutual fund (or PFIC) you continue to hold.
      • Report income, gains, and even unrealized gains, depending on the PFIC method applied.

    Example: You bought Rs.10 lakhs of mutual funds in 2020 while in India. In 2024, you move to the US. From the day you become a US tax resident, any gains or income generated are taxable in the US, and PFIC rules kick in — even if you didn’t sell.

    2. What if I never sold my Indian mutual funds? Do I still need to report them?

    Yes. Just holding a PFIC like an Indian mutual fund requires reporting.

    • Whether or not you sell, you must file Form 8621 every year.
    • There’s no de minimis threshold — even small balances are reportable.

    Skipping the filing can leave your entire US tax return open for audit indefinitely.

    3. Can I avoid PFIC by investing through a US-based brokerage in Indian ETFs?

    Yes. Many NRIs prefer using US-domiciled ETFs (like iShares MSCI India ETF – INDA or WisdomTree India Earnings Fund – EPI) that provide exposure to Indian markets.

    • These are not PFICs, as they’re structured under US tax laws.
    • Gains and dividends are treated like any other US investment — simpler reporting and lower tax impact.

    4. Can I gift or transfer Indian mutual funds to family members in India to avoid PFIC filing?

    Technically yes, but it’s not that simple.

    • A gift or transfer is often considered a “constructive sale” by the IRS, triggering PFIC taxation.
    • You may owe taxes as if you sold it at fair market value, even if you didn’t receive any money.
    • Always consult a cross-border CPA before doing this.

    5. Is a ULIP still a PFIC if it has an insurance component?

    Yes. Even though ULIPs are marketed as insurance in India, they’re treated as investment funds by the IRS if they:

    • Don’t meet US insurance definitions, or
    • Accumulate passive investment income

    ULIPs are almost always treated as PFICs unless structured carefully — which Indian insurers don’t usually do with US compliance in mind.

    6. Can I switch from Regular to Direct Plan in mutual funds without triggering PFIC taxes?

    Unfortunately, no.

    • Any switch is considered a sale and a new purchase.
    • The IRS may treat it as a disposition of PFIC shares, triggering taxation under the default PFIC method (which can be quite punitive).

    7. I’ve held Indian mutual funds for over 10 years. Should I sell them now?

    Selling PFICs may be wise to avoid future complexities, but:

    • The act of selling triggers PFIC tax rules if done while you’re a US resident.
    • It’s best to do a PFIC impact analysis with a tax advisor.
    • You may explore electing the Mark-to-Market method (if eligible), which taxes gains annually instead of on sale — sometimes simplifying the burden.

    8. Can I use the QEF method to report Indian mutual funds?

    No — at least, not practically.

    • The QEF (Qualified Electing Fund) method is the most tax-friendly PFIC reporting method.
    • But it requires annual statements from the fund in a format that complies with IRS rules.
    • No Indian AMC provides these — so QEF is not available for Indian mutual funds today.

    9. Is EPF or PPF considered PFIC?

    No.

    • EPF and PPF are government-backed retirement schemes, not pooled passive investment companies.
    • However, the interest earned is taxable in the US (even if tax-free in India).
    • You may still need to report them under FBAR or FATCA if balances exceed thresholds.

    10. What happens if I don’t report my PFICs to the IRS?

    There are serious risks:

    • IRS may impose penalties for non-disclosure, especially for high-value assets.
    • You may lose eligibility for statute of limitations — i.e., your entire tax return stays open for audit indefinitely.
    • Future green card or citizenship processes may be affected by tax non-compliance.

    Filing even a zero-dollar Form 8621 can protect you from these consequences.

    What About NRIs in Other Countries?

    The PFIC rule is only applicable to US tax residents or citizens. If you are an NRI living in UAE, UK, Singapore, Australia, etc., then PFIC does not apply to you.

    However, each country may have its own tax rules for foreign investments. For example:

    • UK has its own reporting fund regime.
    • Australia taxes foreign mutual funds differently.

    But PFIC rules are unique to the United States — and infamously complex.

    The PFIC rule is one of the most complicated tax regulations faced by NRIs in the US. If you are investing in Indian mutual funds or similar instruments, you are very likely dealing with PFICs — which means higher taxes, complex filings, and more compliance.

    It is not illegal to invest in PFICs, but you must be careful about reporting them correctly and understanding the tax consequences.

    As a fee-only financial planner, my advice is always to simplify your financial life. If the costs and compliance burden of PFIC rules outweigh the returns, then it may be better to explore US-domiciled alternatives or direct investments in India that do not fall under PFIC classification.

    When in doubt, always consult a qualified cross-border tax expert.

    Conclusion – If you are an Indian NRI living in the US, dealing with PFIC rules can be confusing and stressful. The IRS treats many common Indian investments like mutual funds, ULIPs, ETFs, and REITs as PFICs — which means more paperwork, higher taxes, and extra costs. But don’t worry — you can still manage it smartly. Once you understand which investments are considered PFICs and how they are taxed, you can make better decisions. Instead of mutual funds or ULIPs, you can choose simpler options like direct Indian stocks, NRE bank deposits, or US-based ETFs that invest in India — these are easier to manage and don’t fall under PFIC rules. You don’t have to stop investing in India completely. Just plan it carefully based on your current country of residence and tax rules. It’s always wise to take help from a cross-border tax expert and a fee-only financial planner who understands both US and Indian rules. With the right guidance, even complicated rules like PFIC can be handled smoothly and won’t come in the way of your financial goals.

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  • The Financial Advice Boomers Swear By That’s Keeping Millennials Broke

    The Financial Advice Boomers Swear By That’s Keeping Millennials Broke


    The Financial Advice Boomers Swear By That’s Keeping Millennials Broke
    Image source: Unsplash

    There was a time when the classic money rules made sense—buy a house young, avoid debt at all costs, stick to one job until retirement, and you’ll be set. That time was several decades ago. Yet many Baby Boomers continue to hand down this advice with the confidence of people who lived through a very different economy. Meanwhile, Millennials, saddled with student debt, sky-high rent, and stagnant wages, find themselves wondering why these time-tested strategies are failing them.

    The problem isn’t that Boomers want to lead Millennials astray. Quite the opposite: they believe they’re offering wisdom. But the financial system they succeeded in no longer exists. Housing isn’t affordable. Jobs aren’t stable. Education doesn’t guarantee economic mobility. In fact, some of the most common boomer-era money principles are now dangerously out of touch with economic reality.

    So what happens when you try to play by outdated rules in a rigged game? You lose and often feel like it’s your fault. Let’s break down the most harmful advice Millennials are still hearing and why it’s time to rewrite the rules.

    Financial Advice That Needs to Go

    “Buy a House as Soon as You Can” Isn’t Always Smart Advice Anymore

    For Baby Boomers, buying a home was the ultimate goal and a reasonably attainable one. Real estate prices were lower relative to income, down payments were manageable, and mortgage interest rates often came with substantial tax advantages. Fast forward to today, and the path to homeownership looks more like a maze with booby traps.

    Millennials face record-high home prices, stricter lending standards, and urban housing markets where buying requires six-figure incomes or massive inheritances. Add in student loans, inflation, and rising insurance premiums, and it’s clear that rushing to buy a home isn’t always a financially sound move.

    In many cases, renting is the smarter choice, especially when it comes with flexibility, lower upfront costs, and no surprise repair bills. The belief that renting is “throwing money away” simply doesn’t hold up when homes are overvalued, and ownership costs can crush an already tight budget.

    “Stick With One Job for 30 Years” Is a Recipe for Stagnation

    Loyalty used to be a two-way street. Boomers who stayed with a company long-term were often rewarded with pensions, promotions, and job security. But for Millennials, staying put can mean falling behind.

    Today’s job market rewards agility, not tenure. Career advancement often happens through lateral moves, strategic job hopping, or gig-based entrepreneurship, not waiting patiently for a promotion that may never come. Worse, sticking with one employer can mean missing out on market-value pay raises, especially in industries where raises barely outpace inflation.

    Millennials who follow the “stay loyal” advice often find themselves underpaid and overworked, while their peers who switch jobs every few years see exponential income growth. In today’s world, loyalty should be earned, not assumed.

    “Cut the Lattes” Isn’t Going to Save You from a Broken System

    The infamous avocado toast and latte shaming? It’s financial gaslighting. The idea that Millennials are broke because of minor indulgences is not only wrong. It’s insulting. For Boomers, small savings may have added up to something meaningful. But Millennials are fighting much bigger budget battles.

    Wages haven’t kept pace with inflation. Healthcare costs have skyrocketed. Rent eats up over 30% of income in most cities. Student loans are a monthly fixture. In this environment, cutting out coffee won’t solve the problem. Rethinking the entire system might.

    Millennials aren’t financially irresponsible because they enjoy takeout now and then. They’re navigating a far more punishing economy, one where the cost of living has soared without a comparable increase in financial opportunity. Shaming them for $5 decisions ignores the systemic $500 problems.

    saving flat lay, money, saving money
    Image source: Unsplash

    “Debt Is Always Bad” Leaves No Room for Strategy

    Boomers grew up in a world where credit was scarce, interest rates were volatile, and debt often spelled disaster. So, their instinct to avoid debt at all costs is understandable but unhelpful in a modern context.

    Millennials live in an economy where strategic use of debt is not just common but often necessary. Few people can afford higher education, housing, or even emergency expenses without borrowing. When used responsibly, debt can be a tool, not just a trap.

    The key is understanding how to manage debt: knowing when to borrow, how to shop for rates, and how to prioritize repayment. Blanket fear of all debt leads people to avoid building credit, miss investment opportunities, or get blindsided when emergencies hit. Financial literacy (not financial avoidance) is the real protection.

    “You’ll Regret Not Having Kids By 30” Ignores Economic Reality

    Another subtle piece of advice Millennials often hear from older relatives is about starting families “before it’s too late.” While it may come from a place of love, this pressure completely disregards financial reality.

    Raising a child today costs hundreds of thousands of dollars from birth to 18, and that’s not including college. Daycare can rival rent in many cities. And paid parental leave is still not guaranteed in the U.S. For Boomers, starting a family young was financially possible. For Millennials, it can feel like a decision between survival and stability. Choosing to delay parenthood or skip it altogether is often the result of careful economic planning, not selfishness.

    “Retire Early by Saving Aggressively” Isn’t Possible for Everyone

    The FIRE (Financial Independence, Retire Early) movement may sound empowering, but even that concept has its roots in advice that assumes a level of privilege Boomers once enjoyed. Many Millennials struggle just to make ends meet, let alone max out retirement accounts or buy investment properties on the side.

    Even when saving is possible, the idea of early retirement feels like a fantasy for those burdened by stagnant wages and heavy debt. Millennials need realistic strategies for financial resilience, not shame for not stashing away 25% of their income by age 30.

    The better advice? Save consistently, automate where you can, and build flexibility into your plans. Retirement might not come at 50, but that doesn’t mean you can’t build a life you enjoy long before then.

    So What Should Millennials Do Instead?

    The first step is to let go of shame. You’re not failing because you’re not following the rules. You’re failing because the rules changed, and no one told you.

    Next, build your own framework based on today’s reality. That includes:

    • Prioritizing financial literacy over rigid rules

    • Using tools like high-yield savings accounts and ETFs to grow wealth gradually

    • Saying no to homeownership pressure if it doesn’t fit your situation

    • Leveraging job changes and remote work to increase income

    • Learning the mechanics of credit rather than avoiding it entirely

    Perhaps most importantly, Millennials should lean into community—sharing information, collaborating on housing, pooling resources, and unlearning harmful money myths together.

    What outdated financial advice have you received that just doesn’t work today? How are you rewriting your own money rules?

    Read More:

    Why Many Millennials Will Die With Debt—And Be Blamed for It

    7 Reasons Millennials Are Choosing to Rent Forever—And Loving It

  • An update on our newest media brand 18 months and 9,000 later.

    An update on our newest media brand 18 months and $289,000 later.


    This article is a continuation of our initial story on launching FinMasters and spending $477,924 to do so, make sure you read that one first for context. Here’s an overview of what I intend to discuss:

    • An update on what we did for the past 18 months
    • Google & publishers
    • What went wrong? If anything? #

    But why even write this in the first place?

    There is a lot of misleading content about what it takes to build an online business, very little on this particular scale, and even less so about bad bets.

    FinMasters journey

    The last report ended with those 2 scenarios: 

    • Downscale and keep the loss to a minimum while hoping that there will be some growth later on.
    • Continue to double down on the good things and extend the timeline by one more year while committing $150,000 more to the project.

    The traffic looked like this:

    It’s not hard to guess that we chose the second option. We continued with what we have been doing, working with the most reputable and knowledgeable writers we can afford to hire, both for the site and for our freemium newsletter: and we ended the year generating around $7,000 per month in affiliate revenue.

    We were still struggling to get any traffic for general personal finance topics due to a lack of authority, so we decided to continue building our library of content, while at the same time introducing two new types of articles:

    1. Write the best research posts possible, e.g. https://finmasters.com/consumer-debt-statistics/, the best data available & best presentation, to differentiate ourselves.
    2. Fun, easier, and cheaper to produce articles, like: https://finmasters.com/weird-jobs-that-pay-well/, which would give us short & medium-term gains, until we build out authority. We decided to work with an agency on those and edit in-house.

    We’ve continued to invest in marketing as well, we started doing more PPC to promote our new research posts here is our traffic from November 2022:

    Financially, towards the end of 2022, we were losing around $15,000/month, but the traffic was growing. We continued with the same strategy in 2023, but it was more about execution, without trying a lot of new things. Milica who managed the project moved to manage all our media projects.

    We also acquired a smaller site on Flippa on a topic dear to me, logical fallacies: fallacyinlogic.com, if you want to read more about fallacies: https://finmasters.com/logical-fallacy/.

    Here is what our costs looked like for 2023:

    While the traffic was growing, our revenue was not, to continue growing more sustainably, we decided to experiment with display ads and join Raptive.

    Right before joining Raptive, we had our first “surprise”, Google HCU came and we lost around 30% of the traffic, 2 weeks later, another update came and we lost another 30%, here is the chart again:

    I was honestly surprised by the October update, which affected almost all our sites and was something that I haven’t seen happening in the past 13 years, Google specifically hitting sites that engage in affiliate marketing, no matter their history and reputation. For E.g. WPBeginner, which is the oldest and largest WordPress site, based on Ahrefs lost around 20+% of the traffic as well.

    Pretty much all our affiliate income was gone and what we thought would be around $6,000/month in ads revenue, turned out to be $2,000. I was on my 3 months sabbatical, and I think in a bit of a shock, not recognizing nor accepting the new reality.

    I think it took me maybe 6 more months to accept the new reality, for some time I was just thinking that this was a temporary thing and things would turn around. As I look at it now, is maybe the situation from 2-3 years ago that was atypical in terms of how good we’ve been doing.

    Before coming back to our story, let me share my answer to the question: is Google hating small publishers?

    No, Google is just simply serving its users, employees, and shareholders as always; it’s also aiming to maintain competitiveness in search against other information sources. 

    For a long time, Google had a lot of unique but incomplete content, with bloggers sharing random thoughts on their sites, comments, and forums, and they encouraged long-form, in-depth content summarizing that information. However, now they don’t need that anymore. This is because they already have too much similar content, and AI can now effectively digest and summarize a thousand unique viewpoints. What Google truly needs now is to bring back the internet from 15 years ago – forums, discussions, and comments.

    Now let’s get back to our story and what we decided to do further:

    Focus on what you can control

    Since we can control only our content and how users engage with it, we worked on coming up with multiple data points to figure out what articles need improving, besides bounce rate, we measure how many users and how long users are scrolling, if they click any resources or if they hit the back button.

    On top of that, we run various user tests like: https://www.codeinwp.com/blog/content-quality/, to get more qualitative data on how we can improve UX on the sites.

    Based on those we had our whole content team do a round of quick updates, particularly making sure the intros are more useful to users.

    While our content engagement numbers improved, the traffic didn’t follow.

    What we should be doing now?

    Currently, as I’m writing this, there’s another significant Google update in progress. It seems we’re facing another -25% drop in traffic. However, given how far we’ve diverged from our original plans, this decline doesn’t affect our current strategy much.

    Our immediate plan is to maintain our content library at a minimum level. Additionally, we’re considering splitting the site into two parts, with our investment-focused content moving to a new site. This move should make it easier for us to establish a more specialized brand, especially since we already own optionistics.com in this domain.

    Overall, we’ll need to review our entire publishing approach, is still early to tell about the changes we’ll make.

    What went wrong? If anything?

    I believe decisions shouldn’t be judged solely in hindsight with a bias. A good decision might lead to a bad outcome, but what matters more to me is the process behind it. It’s easy to label it a bad idea now, considering we’ve lost about 90% of our investment. However, to evaluate it properly, I would revisit my initial thesis.

    “Heads I win; Tails I don’t lose much.” This is the principle which guided my assessment of this investment. I reasoned that by investing in high-quality content, even if we didn’t achieve the desired return, the downside would be limited, while there was a slim chance for a significant upside.

    In hindsight, we’re far from experiencing minimal losses. Reflecting on what could have been done differently, I realize that overconfidence was likely the biggest mistake. I relied too heavily on past success in our content business, without adequately adjusting to the current market conditions.

    A question that I failed to ask for some time, especially when approaching the personal finance niche, where there is a huge amount of content written: What we’re bringing new & unique to what’s already there? The answer is that honestly, very very little.

    While I was aware that market dynamics would change, I underestimated the urgency, assuming the window of opportunity was wider than it was.

    Confronting past mistakes isn’t enjoyable, and in the past, I often avoided it by not even measuring our efforts in the first place. However, now that we do it, there’s no reason not to seize the opportunity for reflection.

    For context, since I don’t want the post to sound like a complaint, we’re still running a profitable company, we didn’t rely on external funding for this venture. FinMasters represented a significant but not the largest portion of our investments, accounting for roughly 20%.

    We’re still looking to acquire online businesses, if you’re interested in doing so, here is how we’re different:

    We come up with a fair contract for both buyer & seller, without unnecessary restrictions, and we’re transparent with what are the prices we usually pay, those can still vary a lot, but for non-growing businesses is between 3-4x yearly revenue.

    You’ll not be dealing with a layer of assistants, you can email me directly at [email protected] and have an answer in a day. We can usually close in around 2 weeks. We are not asking for a million things that we can usually find ourselves.

    Some products will grow, some will stay as they are, and some will die, but in all cases, we’ll be trying to find the best solution for the existing users and do the best we can to not cause damage to the work you’ve done.

    A lot of people trusted us with their projects so far and we’re happy to provide references. We acquired products like PPOM, Multi Page Generator, Optionistics, imgbot.net, and http://blog.cathy-moore.com. Usually, people who want to move on to other things.

  • True & Practical Ways to Achieve a 850 Credit Score – GrowthRapidly



    April 22, 2025
    Posted By: growth-rapidly
    Tag:
    Uncategorized

    Achieving a perfect credit score of 850 (on the FICO or VantageScore scale) is rare but possible with disciplined financial habits. A score of 850 requires near-perfect management of credit factors over time. Below is a concise, actionable guide to maximize your credit score, tailored to the key factors that influence it, based on current credit scoring models.

    Key Factors Affecting Your Credit Score

    FICO and VantageScore models weigh similar factors, though exact weightings vary slightly:

    1. Payment History (FICO: 35%, VantageScore: ~40%): Paying all bills on time is critical.
    2. Credit Utilization (FICO: 30%, VantageScore: ~20%): The ratio of credit card balances to credit limits.
    3. Length of Credit History (FICO: 15%): Average age of accounts and age of oldest account.
    4. Credit Mix (FICO: 10%): Managing both revolving (credit cards) and installment (loans) accounts.
    5. New Credit (FICO: 10%): Recent credit inquiries and new accounts.
    6. Amounts Owed (VantageScore: ~20%): Total debt relative to available credit.
    7. Derogatory Marks: Bankruptcies, collections, or foreclosures (heavily weighted in both models).

    An 850 score requires optimizing all these factors consistently, as even minor missteps can prevent perfection.

    Steps to Raise Your Credit Score to 850

    1. Pay All Bills On Time, Every Time:
      • Why: Payment history is the largest factor. A single missed payment can drop your score by 100+ points and stay on your report for 7 years.
      • How:
        • Set up autopay for at least the minimum payment on all credit cards and loans.
        • Use calendar reminders or budgeting apps (e.g., Mint, YNAB) to track due dates.
        • Pay off credit card balances in full each month to avoid interest and ensure reported payments are timely.
        • If you’ve missed payments, bring accounts current and maintain perfect payment history moving forward. Older late payments (e.g., 2+ years) have less impact.
    2. Keep Credit Utilization Below 10%:
      • Why: Utilization is the second-largest factor. Scores peak when total and per-card utilization is under 10% (e.g., $100 balance on a $1,000 limit = 10%).
      • How:
        • Pay credit card balances multiple times per month to keep reported balances low. Check when your issuer reports to bureaus (often at statement closing) and pay before this date.
        • Request credit limit increases from issuers every 6–12 months to lower utilization, but don’t use the extra credit.
        • Avoid closing old credit card accounts, as this reduces total available credit and raises utilization.
        • If utilization is high, pay down balances aggressively, starting with cards closest to their limits.
        • Example: If you have three cards with $5,000 total limits, keep total balances below $500.
    3. Maintain a Long Credit History:
      • Why: A longer credit history boosts scores, as it demonstrates reliability. The average age of accounts and age of your oldest account matter.
      • How:
        • Keep your oldest credit card open and active with small, recurring charges (e.g., a $10 subscription) paid off monthly.
        • Avoid opening multiple new accounts in a short period, as this lowers the average age of accounts.
        • If you’re younger or have a thin file, become an authorized user on a trusted person’s long-standing, well-managed credit card to inherit their account’s history.
        • Note: It takes years to maximize this factor, so patience is key for an 850 score.
    4. Diversify Your Credit Mix:
      • Why: Handling both revolving (credit cards) and installment (auto, mortgage, student loans) accounts shows financial versatility.
      • How:
        • If you only have credit cards, consider a small personal loan or a secured loan (e.g., through a credit union) and pay it off on time. Avoid unnecessary debt, though.
        • If you have loans but no credit cards, open a secured credit card with a low limit and use it responsibly.
        • Don’t take on debt solely for credit mix unless necessary, as this factor has less weight.
    5. Limit New Credit Inquiries and Accounts:
      • Why: Hard inquiries (from new credit applications) can ding your score by 5–10 points each and stay on your report for 2 years. Too many new accounts signal risk.
      • How:
        • Apply for new credit sparingly—only when needed (e.g., for a mortgage or major purchase).
        • Space out applications by at least 6 months to minimize impact.
        • Check prequalification offers (soft inquiries) to gauge approval odds without affecting your score.
        • If shopping for a loan (e.g., auto or mortgage), cluster applications within a 14–45-day window, as FICO and VantageScore count these as a single inquiry.
    6. Monitor and Dispute Errors on Your Credit Report:
      • Why: Errors like incorrect late payments or accounts that aren’t yours can lower your score.
      • How:
        • Check your credit reports from Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion for free at AnnualCreditReport.com (weekly access is still available post-2023).
        • Use services like Credit Karma or Experian’s free monitoring for real-time alerts, but verify data against official reports.
        • Dispute inaccuracies online or by mail with the bureaus, providing documentation (e.g., payment records). Bureaus must investigate within 30 days.
        • Common errors: wrong balances, duplicate accounts, or fraudulent accounts from identity theft.
    7. Resolve Derogatory Marks:
      • Why: Bankruptcies, collections, or foreclosures can prevent an 850 score. These stay on your report for 7–10 years but lose impact over time.
      • How:
        • Pay off or settle collections accounts. Request a “pay-for-delete” agreement in writing, though not all agencies comply.
        • For accounts in collections, negotiate to pay in full or settle for less, and ask for removal from your report.
        • If derogatory marks are old (5+ years), focus on perfecting other factors, as their impact fades.
        • Avoid new negative marks at all costs, as recent issues are heavily penalized.
    8. Use Advanced Strategies for Fine-Tuning:
      • Authorized User Status: If your score is close to 850 (e.g., 800+), being added as an authorized user on a card with a perfect payment history and low utilization can nudge you higher.
      • Balance Reporting Timing: Pay off credit card balances before the statement closing date, not just the due date, to report a $0 or near-$0 balance to bureaus. A small balance ($5–$10) on one card can slightly boost scores, as it shows activity.
      • Credit Builder Loans: For those with thin files, a credit builder loan (offered by credit unions or platforms like Self) can add positive installment loan history.
      • Experian Boost: Opt into Experian Boost to add on-time utility, phone, or streaming payments to your Experian report. This may not directly lead to 850 but can help if your score is lower.

    Timeline and Expectations

    • Starting Score Matters:
      • 300–600: Focus on paying bills on time, reducing debt, and resolving derogatory marks. Reaching 850 may take 2–5 years.
      • 600–750: Optimize utilization (<10%), avoid new inquiries, and build credit history. Expect 1–3 years to reach 800+, then fine-tune for 850.
      • 750–800: You’re close. Perfect payment history, keep utilization under 10%, and maintain old accounts. Reaching 850 could take 6 months to 2 years.
      • 800+: You’re in the top tier (FICO scores 800–850 are “exceptional”). Maintain perfect habits and avoid any negative actions. Minor tweaks (e.g., lowering utilization to 1–5%) can push you to 850 in months.
    • Time Factor: An 850 score often requires 10+ years of credit history, multiple accounts, and no recent negative marks. Younger people or those with thin files may need to build history first.

    Practical Tips for Austin, Texas

    • Local Resources: Austin has credit unions like University Federal Credit Union (UFCU) or Amplify Credit Union that offer secured credit cards or credit builder loans to boost scores. These are ideal for thin files or recovering from derogatory marks.
    • Cost of Living: Austin’s high cost of living (e.g., median rent ~$1,800/month) can strain finances. Budget carefully to avoid missed payments or high credit card balances.
    • Job Market: If you’re in a field like runway modeling (per your prior question), irregular income may make autopay and low utilization harder. Use a budgeting app to smooth cash flow and prioritize credit card payments.

    Common Pitfalls to Avoid

    • Missing even one payment can reset your progress toward 850.
    • Closing old accounts reduces credit history length and available credit, raising utilization.
    • Maxing out cards, even if paid off monthly, can hurt if high balances are reported.
    • Applying for multiple credit cards or loans in a short period signals risk.
    • Ignoring credit reports can miss errors or fraud that lower your score.

    Monitoring Progress

    • Use free tools like Credit Karma (VantageScore) or Experian’s app (FICO) to track your score monthly.
    • Pull full credit reports from AnnualCreditReport.com quarterly to verify accuracy.
    • Sign up for alerts from your bank or credit card issuer to catch missed payments or high balances early.

    Why 850 May Not Matter

    • Diminishing Returns: Scores above 760–800 qualify for the best loan rates and credit card offers. An 850 score offers no additional practical benefits for most purposes (e.g., mortgages, auto loans).
    • Focus on 800+: If 850 feels out of reach, aim for 800, which is still exceptional and achievable with slightly less perfection.

    Example Plan (Starting at 700)

    • Month 1: Check credit reports for errors and dispute inaccuracies. Set up autopay for all accounts. Pay down credit card balances to <10% utilization.
    • Month 3: Request a credit limit increase on one card to lower utilization further. Keep oldest card open and active.
    • Month 6: Avoid new credit applications. If needed, add a small installment loan to diversify credit mix.
    • Year 1: Maintain perfect payments and low utilization. Become an authorized user on a trusted person’s card if history is short.
    • Year 2: Fine-tune by reporting near-$0 balances and ensuring no derogatory marks. Score should approach 800–850 if all factors are optimized.

    Final Notes

    Achieving an 850 credit score requires:

    • Perfect payment history (no missed payments, ever).
    • Very low utilization (<10%, ideally 1–5% across all cards).
    • Long credit history (10+ years, with old accounts kept open).
    • Diverse, well-managed accounts (cards and loans).
    • No recent inquiries or derogatory marks.

    Start by checking your current score and reports to identify weaknesses (e.g., high utilization, short history). Focus on the highest-impact actions first: timely payments and low utilization. If you’re in Austin, leverage local credit unions for tools like secured cards. For personalized advice, share your current score or specific issues (e.g., collections, high debt), and I can tailor recommendations further. If you need help accessing credit reports or finding local resources, let me know!